|
One month of living in Carlton, and new routines had slowly materialized. While I continued meeting new people, I now had existing friendships to build on. If there’s any theme to this chapter, it’s having the blessing of free time to continue exploring the city. Everyday life was pretty good. Every run at the Carlton Gardens was just a bit different. Some days a tai chi group with boombox music practiced their art under the slanted roof of the Melbourne Museum. Other times a large tour group was spilling out of the bus with cameras at the ready, or a bride and groom were posing for photos by the fountain. Enormous posters for Dune Part 2 watched over the constant stream of bikes with food delivery boxes. The scaffold on the side of the Royal Exhibition Building was a reminder of its slow decay and lack of funding, a popular subject in the local newspaper. Overnight, rows of exhibition tents started popping up on the front lawns, presumably for the upcoming flower and garden show. The apartment kitchen was still lacking many amenities but it had two large woks, which were handy for making recipes like eggplant pork (pictured below) and turkey chili. Although the fresh produce at Coles was pitiful, I still went there for the fresh pasta, and made a spicy arrabiata with mushrooms. One of the new residents was a chef from Italy, named Cristian, who seemed horrified by the kitchen and instantly bought his own supplies. At least the cleaning crews were visiting regularly, keeping the surfaces clean and emptying out the cabinet when a guest departed. Unfortunately, they didn't seem to restock the dishwashing supplies. We lived for several days without a sponge. I bought a sponge, but then realized there was no soap. The appearance of a whitetail spider on my towel, which took several attempts to kill, was a jarring reminder that I was indeed still in Australia. I returned to the Sidney Myer Bowl on another hot Wednesday evening for more of the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra. At the start of the show, they accompanied the Acknowledgement of Traditional Owners with a short piece of music, which was very tastefully done. The main program included Rossini, Tchaikovsky, and Beethoven, with Beethoven’s First Symphony being the highlight. While I snacked on my picnic staples of Yumi’s hummus and falafel, the blanket next to me gradually annexed more and more territory. People continued arriving during the program. The latecomers ignored the marked aisles and sat in the pathways, which was annoying. That aside, it was still a pleasant evening of classical music. As it became dark, screeching cockatoos settled into the treetops and confused fruit bats skirted around the bowl’s multicolored lights. Australian Survivor: Titans vs. Rebels continued to be an entertaining season, with countless failed revenge plots that left bitter enemies stuck together for episode after episode. Lamingtons were the perfect accompaniment to the intrigue. At the next barmeet, I had a refreshing pint of Tiger beer, caught up with friends from the convention, and met an energetic medical student who had just moved to Melbourne. I tried another lemon-lime-with-bitters, but the soda tap was acting up, so the drinks weren't sweet enough. Everyone was a little bitter. One Thursday night, I attended an improv-themed event at a hotel/pub in Collingwood, unsure what to expect. The event was advertised on the Meetup app and had attracted a modest assortment of curious folks like me. I talked to some of the other attendees, including a Melburnian who was currently taking the sponsor’s improv classes. Another was a fellow named Ahnaf, who had moved from Adelaide and worked in medical device cybersecurity for a Bay Area company; we quickly bonded. The warmup improv "jam" was open to everyone. I hopped up on the small stage and fumbled through a scene. It was as difficult as I had remembered. Afterwards was the actual show, where the main cast performed scenes inspired by audience suggestions, including “Mars” and “Civil War.” The first troupe was pretty good, but the second one struggled to create interesting situations. I left before the third troupe, and wasn't planning on attending again. But if I made one friend along the way, it was still a good evening. On the walk back, the streets were alive with live music from the bars and pubs of Fitzroy. Friday, I hung out with Reggie, who had just quit their admin job and was about to start an MFA program at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT). We caught up over a coffee on Lygon Street, and they offered to give me a tour of the main RMIT campus. Reggie had been a student at RMIT for a good while before the MFA and had even been an official tour guide! Even though RMIT was tucked into the dense CBD area, the hive-like complex of lounges, libraries, and stores was spacious and inviting. There were plenty of study spaces and meeting rooms, a career center, and even an eSports gaming room. At the bookstore, I learned the RMIT mascot was a redback spider. We found the school’s formula car, which had nice carbon fiber work. Reggie also showed me the queer lounge, a space they had fought to secure, and their pride and joy on campus. The lounge was full of whimsical and practical things, from board games to pronoun buttons. Amidst the lighthearted décor, a poster honoring a queer student who took their own life was a poignant reminder. For dinner we went to a Malaysian restaurant called PappaRich, located in a hidden pedestrian mall. I’d walked by dozens of times without realizing how many shops were inside. I had an amazing roti with sambal for dipping and curry chicken, plus a rose milkshake with jelly cubes. A tasty treat! A free Saturday was the perfect chance for my second Parkrun. I wanted to try the course at Yarra Bend park, near the fruit bat colony. I texted Ben, the Kiwi that I met at the first Parkrun, and convinced him to join. The Yarra Bend course started with a suspension bridge crossing, went along the river, and turned around at a “witch’s hat” – Aussie slang for a traffic cone. It was a trail run, with dirt paths, treacherous tree roots and branches, and elevation gain. In a pack of runners, it was a bit tricky, especially when there was traffic in both directions. After the run, Ben and I had a coffee at the Studley Boathouse overlooking a dock on the river. It was a lovely spot for a light conversation. I learned he worked as a coffee equipment repairman and had a long-distance girlfriend back home in New Zealand. He had several tattoos, which I was surprised to learn that he had inked himself – an impressive but harrowing prospect. In the afternoon, I headed to the Queen Victoria Market for a Turkish festival celebrating the country’s 100th anniversary. A musical performer used a keyboard to mimic traditional instruments, while singing beautiful melodies and trills in the Islamic style. People in colorful outfits danced in front of the stage, and audience members who knew the lyrics sang along too. The festival had a few tents with arts and crafts, but the food was the focus. I indulged in a water borek, with layers of filo dough that reminded me of pasta, and a bag of Turkish delight. Back at the apartment, a new recurring character was a Canadian physiotherapy student named Jean Luc, or JL for short. As an avid traveler, he arranged one of his four placements/rotations in Melbourne. A gregarious and ambitious fellow, JL was determined to see as much of Australia as he could in a short time. He also seemed to have bad luck, whether getting caught by the tram ticket inspector or locked out of his room. (Alexi managed to squeeze through JL’s window to open the door, saving him from the lost key fee.) On this Monday morning, JL had just gotten back from a weekend trip to the Gold Coast, which had been thrown off by a flight cancellation. He was a bit disheveled and called in sick to recover. Nevertheless, when I mentioned I was going on a free tour of the State Library, his travel instinct kicked in, and he decided to join. The State Library of Victoria is the 3rd oldest public library in the world, founded by Sir Redmond Barry in 1853. The tour was led by a passionate and eloquent lady who had tons of knowledge about the library’s history. I found her commentary fascinating, but I’m guessing most of the group found it excessive – she probably spent 5 minutes explaining the historical context of Australia’s involvement with the Turkey campaign in WWI to preface a mural in the corner of the atrium. One of the oldest hallways, Queen’s Hall, was inspired by the Long Room at Trinity College in Dublin. Every book that’s published in Victoria must have a copy in the library, and Queen’s Hall contained a subset. However, the books in this collection can’t be checked out, so many of these copies have never been read! The most spectacular room in the library was the octagonal La Trobe Reading Room, with radial desks emanating from a central panopticon. With the high dome ceiling and natural light, it was awe-inspiring. It was also a comfortable and practical space. The desks could hold up books (or iPads) at a good angle for reading, and the acoustics were relatively muffled for such a large space. I definitely plan to go back to explore it more. The tour also covered some of the adjacent rooms, which used to be Melbourne’s art gallery and natural history museum. There were amazing records of immigration arrivals and commercial shipments throughout Australia's history. On display was also the suit of armor worn by Ned Kelly, the notorious bushranger (highway bandit), complete with bullet indentations from shootouts. After the tour, JL suggested getting pho for lunch, and we nabbed a table at a nearby restaurant. The noodles and broth were excellent, and a strong Vietnamese iced coffee always hits the spot. And to finish this slice of life, here's a photo from my neighborhood, taken just a few blocks from my apartment on a pretty day.
0 Comments
Meetup groups are a great resource for finding communities in a new place, and I made a number of friends through an unusual segment of the population – the furry fandom. Given the negative stereotypes about furries in the media, I initially wasn’t sure it was a good idea to join a meetup. But the local group, the "MelbFurs," appeared to be a social bunch with regular barmeets and events. I took a peek at the group dynamics on Telegram, the messaging app, and it seemed like fun. The barmeets happened every Tuesday night at a bar in the CBD, a spacious and homey venue with cozy décor and a playlist of classic rock songs. The back corner was allocated for the meetup, a symbiotic relationship between the venue and the group, a regular source of business on an otherwise-quiet night. The back corner was stuffy on this warm evening. I imagine that also contributed to the drink sales. The first barmeet that I joined was a mixed experience. There were several friendly and fantastic people that I instantly connected with. There were also some antisocial folks that were hard to talk to. But the good ones who welcomed me into the group happened to set into motion the events of the next few weeks, including getting me a ticket to an event called the Melbourne Fur Con (MFC). First, a general description of the furry fandom. Only a small portion (~20%) have a fursuit, the mascot-like costumes that are the most visible segment of the fandom. A much more common way to participate is through the creation (and appreciation of) digital artwork. It’s also common for furries to create an original character called a “fursona” that serves as an online avatar. For simplicity, and perhaps anonymity, most people at the barmeet introduced themselves by their character’s name. Many people had cartoon stickers of their characters they would hand out as a token of friendship, a small tradition that I really appreciated. I accumulated a small collection! By coincidence, one of the first people I met, Reggie, became my closest friend in the group. Reggie was well-spoken, down to earth, extremely knowledgeable about Melbourne and Australia, a scout leader, a photographer, and a community-oriented person with lots of connections. Their fursona was a peacock, inspired by one of those “what animal are you” personality tests. They also happened to be a board member of the Melbourne Fur Con (MFC). The event tickets had officially sold out months ago, but a spot had recently opened up. When Reggie heard I was visiting from abroad and had never attended a con, they pulled some strings to redirect the spot my way. It was a kind gesture, and yet another example of Melburnians making an effort to positively represent their city. I also chatted with other folks. March and Walter were easygoing and friendly; XXS offered me a welcome drink, but otherwise didn’t seem very welcoming; Hexa was commissioning a fursuit from a well-known Australian maker; Orithan was on the autism spectrum and struggled in conversation. The evening was a marked illustration of the overlap between the furry fandom and the queer community, neurodivergent community, and video gamers. The average person the room was in their late 20s or early 30s, a software engineer, and gay. In some ways it reminded me of the theater community, in terms of the creativity and diversity, but with more STEM and less social skills. As a minor point, I was slightly disappointed that more people didn’t have Australian animals as their fursona species. Over the weekend, I convinced Reggie to hang out with me at the St. Kilda festival. We walked along the coast and chatted while the Melbourne skyline reflected the setting sun. I learned that Reggie had overcome many challenges in their life, which they openly spoke about with astonishing transparency. From childhood bullying for being Asian-American, being homeless as a young person, navigating life with an invisible disability, and grappling with their identity as a non-binary person, there were so many complicated layers to their story that you would never guess based on their low-key and friendly demeanor. Of course, there were lighthearted topics too, like an augmented reality game called Ingress and where to find cheap food in Melbourne (hint: Domino’s). I appreciated the chance to have a meaningful conversation on so many topics. The second barmeet was a few days before the convention, so I went in hopes of meeting more people that I might encounter at the event. I had better luck with finding engaging people this time, including a personable programmer named Bramble and the barmeet’s de facto leader, Saba. I heard about the Australian tax loophole of using company cars as personal perks and learned a new drink order – “lemon lime with bitters,” a non-alcoholic soda with aromatic bitters. Volpes, the one who explained the drink, seemed a little dejected so I ordered us a round, and he seemed to liven up a bit. In preparation for the MFC event, I thought it would be fun to create a fursona of my own. For the species, a gray fox was the obvious choice: the personal connection from seeing them frolicking in the backyard, and the associated traits of cleverness and playfulness. The name was harder to pick. I chose Silvius, meaning “of the forest” in Latin: an expression of my connection to nature and the outdoors, and coincidentally a Shakespeare character that I’ve portrayed. I made a digital drawing of Silvius using Paint.NET, a free program I’ve been using for years, and Reggie printed a copy for my con badge. The Melbourne Fur Con was hosted at the Novotel Hotel in the suburb of Preston, easily accessible on the 86 tram. It was organized as a family-friendly con, meaning that language was kept in check, alcohol was restricted to private room parties, and the dealer’s den (where artists sell their original work) was kept free from explicit content. There were around 500 attendees from all over Australia, and about half with a fursuit. The year’s theme, Cyberchase, was reflected in the goodie bag contents including custom stickers, a water bottle, and a t-shirt. Friday included an opening ceremony and the first topic-centered panels, like the hilariously named “Help, My Child is a Furry?” geared towards parents. There were indeed some parents attending the con with their young children, which was super wholesome to see. Another panel offered advice for first-time attendees, like the 6-2-1 rule: at least 6 hours of sleep, 2 proper meals, and 1 shower per day. It was also the first opportunity to browse through the dealer’s den. Surgical masks were required, and fursuits were banned, as it was in closer quarters. There were around 40 tables where independent artists were selling custom prints, badges, pins, fursuit accessories, and even taking commissions for custom drawings to be completed within the weekend. For many, it was the highlight of the con. I picked up a few stickers, enamel pins of Australian animals, a fox beanie, and a print from an artist called Silvixen. I had a fun time hanging out in the lobby, striking up small conversations with other attendees, and watching fursuiters meander through the hotel. Quite the contrast between their silly, cartoonish appearance and the polished, professional atmosphere of the hotel! Many unsuspecting businesspeople and airline crews found themselves side-by-side with enormous wolves and dragons in the elevator. Hanging out in the breezeway, I met a duo from Sydney, Flippsy and Justin, who had nice suit designs and were also really nice people. For dinner, I went out with Reggie and his volunteer friend Daniel for noodle soup and dumplings at a nearby spot called Tina's. The food was excellent, though the soup was hot and we were impatiently hungry. Friday night also included a dance, with a mix of DJ sets and a live performance from the metal guitarist When Snakes Sing. I talked with Snakes later in the con and it sounded like his performance at MFC was a breakthrough moment. A few years back, he “came out” as a furry and started tailoring his original songs towards a furry audience. A talented guitarist and singer, he’s now gotten his foot into the convention circuit in Australia, which includes other annual furry events in Sydney, Gold Coast, and Perth. Back to the dance floor, it was surreal to be surrounded with dancing fursuiters, with paws in the air and tails shaking. Given how overheated they were probably getting, it was also an impressive feat of endurance. Saturday’s highlight was the fursuit parade. Everyone gathered in a hotel courtyard, and then marched to a nearby park for a group photo. To stay hydrated, the fursuiters drank water bottles through their foam heads, giving the hilarious appearance of eating them. Cooling vests and portable fans were also a common sight. One of the convention norms was never taking pictures of suiters who had to remove their heads to stay cool. There was even a dedicated space for this, called the “headless lounge.” While in the park, I met a cute Dutch Angel Dragon, a fictional species inspired by horses. The guy inside was suiting for the first time as "Patch" and loving it. One of my other favorite character designs from the event was Rio, another Dutch Angel Dragon. Rio actually hosted a workshop explaining some of the mythology around the species, with art supplies for people to draw their own designs. After the park outing, there was a fashion-show style catwalk event. Each suiter struck a few poses while the photographers clicked away. Someone in a Shrek outfit made an appearance and did a hilarious bodybuilder routine. Next up was the Fursuit Games, including a beanbag toss, red light green light, and musical statues (i.e. players have to stop dancing when the music stops). I thought the last game was a clever choice, as it’s much easier for the suiters to hear in costume – whereas vision is really limited. The Saturday night schedule was intentionally open, so that people could congregate in smaller groups. For example, there was a meetup for “grey muzzles” (the tongue-in-cheek term for older furries) at the hotel bar. I ended up linking up with Bramble, who I met a few days earlier at the barmeet, and who had been around the con in a realistic red panda fursuit. I joined him for dinner, along with his orbit of out-of-town guests, Neon and Taco. Neon’s fursona was a protogen, a fictional cyborg species with an LED emoting helmet. He worked on a berry farm in a remote part of Queensland, south of Brisbane. Taco’s fursona was a Pegasus pony, of the My Little Pony variety. He was from a smaller town in Victoria and worked at a car dealership. Both were really solid guys, and it was honestly a huge relief to have a social group within the larger event. Bramble had a specific ramen place in mind and drove us there in his car. It was actually quite far away, in Carnegie, which gave plenty of time for lively conversation, like debating the differences between bogans and eshays (two Aussie stereotypes, a bit like rednecks). There was a long wait at the restaurant, so we had a drink in the bar next door. Bramble invited two other friends along, who were also furries but with more emphasis on tabletop games like Dungeons and Dragons. The ramen itself was fast, cheap, and really flavorful. But the good company is what I’ll remember most. We made our way back to the hotel, and hung out in Bramble’s room. He offered to let me try on the red panda suit. In the heavily air-conditioned room, the thick suit was actually comfortable. Apart from the lack of visibility, which was pitiful. The guys draped a lanyard over my head and I could barely tell! One cool feature (literally) was a small electric fan built into the mask, pointed directly at the wearer’s face. The jaw also opened slightly when I opened mine. Aesthetically, the realistic style fursuits aren’t my favorite (I prefer the “toony” style) but it was still a memorable experience. Sunday was a more laid-back day. I was pretty drained from all the socialization but still went to a few panels, the most interesting a tutorial on creating a “duct tape dummy.” In order to commission a fursuit, the future owner has to create a fabric shell of their entire body shape and send it to the maker. This is accomplished by putting on a disposable painter’s suit, having your friends smother it in duct tape, and then carefully cutting it off like a cocoon. The panelists demonstrated this onstage over the course of an hour, some wearing fursuit heads while applying tape. After the panel, I hung out at the hotel bar with Bramble et al. The last event was a charity auction. Artists and participants donated merchandise to the staff, and each item was sold in the classic auction style (the auctioneer did a brilliant job!) The charity of choice was a wildlife sanctuary in Victoria called Odonata Mt Rothwell, home to endangered species of wallabies and quolls. In total, $6,700 was raised – not bad for a relatively small con, with wallets already hurting from 3 days of the dealers’ den. Even if Aussie animals weren’t a common choice for fursonas, there were still a few really good ones, including a Tasmanian devil, a thylacine, and an echidna. Though not wearing it at the time, the echnidna fursuiter told me he had a detachable long tongue like a real echidna! Attending MFC was a unique experience! There were so many delightful character designs to marvel at, and silly interactions to laugh along with. Hanging out with Taco, Neon, and Bramble was an awesome part of the experience, as the convention was large enough (and long enough) to be a tad overwhelming.
Even though attending a furry convention was a bit bizarre and a little outside my comfort zone, bonding with Aussies over a niche interest was exactly the kind of travel experience I was hoping for. Melbourne truly has every kind of event imaginable! Melbourne loves its music, and three noteworthy performances popped up in the span of less than a week: the Taylor Swift concert, the St. Kilda Festival, and a night of Puccini at the Sidney Myer Bowl. Of course, a few non-music things happened that are worth highlighting too. Shall we begin? A one, a two, a one two three… The global sensation that is the Eras Tour arrived in Melbourne for a series of three concerts, just a few days after Taylor Swift was in Las Vegas celebrating the Chiefs’ Superbowl victory. The performances were held at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (the “MCG”) on the Yarra River, not far from where the Australian Open was held a month earlier. Many people had traveled to Melbourne specifically for the concert, and Taylor Mania was the talk of the town. The city’s most famous landmark, Flinders Station, had a projected welcome message for the visiting Swifties. I didn’t have a ticket but given the concerts’ reputation for having a fun atmosphere, I thought it was worth checking out the scene. On Friday night, I went on a walking tour, starting down Cardigan Street (fitting for a Swift concert!) It was the pre-concert migration and the trams were packed with sequins and colorful dresses. Along the Yarra, I merged into the masses of cowboy boots, hats, and Travis Kelce jerseys. Bike-drawn rickshaws were carting passengers through the crowds, playing Swift songs on wireless speakers. Outside the MCG, fans were exchanging friendship bracelets (including with security staff) and complimenting other outfits. Plenty of people were there to “Taylorgate” and listen as the music wafted over the concrete walls. Outside, there were merchandise tents, food trucks, and plenty of places to sit. Since the concert's official start was still an hour or two away, I checked out a free rugby match that was in progress across the street. It was the Melbourne Rebels vs. the Fiji Drua, and the first rugby match I’d ever seen. The frequent lateral throws kept the game moving faster than American football, but the dogpiles and tackles certainly reminded me of it. There was no scoreboard, but I gathered that Fiji won, as the field was lined with spectators and one side appeared to be the Fijian fanbase. Back to Taylor Mania. The Age, a local newspaper, was posting live updates on the concert experience like it was a major sporting event. I followed along with the updates from a scenic spot by the Yarra. I returned to the MCG closer to the official start time, and was close enough to hear the cheers as Taylor took the stage. The Taylorgaters all flocked to the entrances, trying to catch a glimpse through the open breezeways. The audience of 96,000 was the largest show that Taylor had performed, which says a lot about Melbourne’s ability to organize events. I texted my Swiftie friends, joking that Taylor came to visit me in Australia. Saturday morning, I rolled out of bed earlier than usual to join a community running event called Parkrun. There are Parkrun events held all over Melbourne (and Australia) every Saturday morning at a variety of locations – I chose the one at Princes Park. I recently acquired a new pair of running shoes, my usual Mizunos this time in black, and was eager to continue breaking them in. The Parkrun “vollies” (volunteers) explained the course, two loops around the perimeter, 5km total. Everyone lined up according to their estimated pace, and the run began. The event was much larger than I expected, with 536 runners taking over the footpath. My understanding is that running groups in general became extremely popular in Melbourne during the pandemic. The Parkrun system was extremely well organized. When signing up for the first time, each runner gets a personal barcode that’s scanned at the completion of the run. Similar to an organized race, the results are electronically processed and posted online. But unlike a one-off event, the Parkrun model offers the ability to see progress over time – it tracks your personal best time, and “anniversaries” like a 50th or 100th event. Not to mention it was totally free! After the run I chatted with a friendly Kiwi named Ben, sought out a water fountain, and took the tram back to my place. Someone had left a pack of free croissants in the kitchen, so I made breakfast sandwiches. While I’m not usually into mornings, it was a pretty great morning. Sunday afternoon, I headed down to the beach suburb of St. Kilda for the (free!) music festival. The weather was perfect – sunny and warm. Several major streets were closed to cars and trams. In their place, performance stages, market stalls, and food trucks had taken over. There were around 7-8 different stages with acts running in parallel, each with a slightly different character. The one I spent the most time at was the O’Donnell Gardens stage, which had several excellent rock bands, including The Heights and Hard No. They played a mix of covers that I recognized and original songs. The audience seemed to be enjoying it, as many people also stayed for a while. I also checked out the Locals stage and caught an act with more relaxed folk music, John Wayne Parsons. The songs were inspired by the singer’s ancestors, and included one about the Stolen Generation (indigenous children forcibly separated from their families due to government policies). Walking past Luna Park, I stumbled across a lively pep band playing pop covers and dancing in the street. It was extremely fun and energizing! They were good performers, both musically and hyping the crowd. The main stage was right next to the beach, but it was between acts when I walked past. The festival was alcohol-free apart from a dedicated zone, the Cointreau stage. I listened to a performance from a grassy hill while the sun filtered through the palm trees. For dinner, I got a plate of chicken, peanut sauce, and jollof rice from a Senegalese food truck. It tasted great, but the highlight was the beverage – fruit juice from the baobab tree, called bouye. It reminded me a bit of guava, and was very refreshing. It amazes me that there’s enough public funding to have free festivals like these in just about every Melbourne suburb. On the same day I was in St. Kilda, there was a parallel festival in the suburb of Northcote, also free and sponsored by the local government. And a week later, I stumbled across the Johnston Street Fiesta – a Latin American food and music festival, with a giant stage just two blocks from my doorstep. With so many festivals to keep track of, I found myself learning about upcoming events through Public Transit Victoria (PTV) posters about tram/bus route disruptions! On Tuesday, I went over to Gail’s to help with a special home improvement project. There’s a narrow courtyard between her house and the neighboring one that she’s converting into an outdoor space for her cat, Katie. The goal was install a long net across the gap, to prevent Katie from escaping via the roof. We managed to squeeze a ladder through the window, unfold it, and use a plank of wood to create a stable base. I spent the afternoon on the ladder, using cable ties to attach one side of the netting to a pipe, and nails to attach the other side to a wood border. It was a bit of a tight spot, and pretty high up, but we had the right tools (and right team!) to get the job done. Also part of the “working bee” were some of Gail’s family members – her sister Mandy, brother-in-law Darren, and father Ken, still sharp in his 90s. I had fun getting to know everyone over the tasty Greek food that Gail provided for lunch. The whole family exuded that Aussie charm – a mix of cheerfulness, cleverness, and camaraderie. It was a hot day, and after completing the job, a cold “stubbie” of beer was the perfect reward. On Wednesday night, I headed to the Botanical Gardens for a free outdoor concert at the Sidney Myer Bowl. The free outdoor concerts have a long history, going back to 1929, well before the permanent bowl was constructed in 1959. The bowl’s design was inspired by the Hollywood Bowl and named after one of the patrons of the original concert series. A great recommendation from Zeah the guitar teacher! I arrived when the gates opened at 5:30pm, and the lawn was roasting in the sun. I survived the 2-hour wait thanks to copious amounts of sunscreen. Though I made the mistake of bringing chocolate Tim Tams, which promptly melted. My fellow audience members were in good spirits, with many enjoying wine and charcuterie boards as they caught up with friends. The sun set behind the Melbourne skyline, and colorful lights were projected on the underside of the bowl. The concert was performed by the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra, conducted by Benjamin Northey. It was a Puccini-themed evening, with pieces from Tosca, La Boheme, and Madama Butterfly. Two opera singers, a tenor and a soprano, played a prominent role. I thought the tenor was especially good and absolutely nailed the famous aria “nessun dorma” from Turandot. The whole concert was being broadcast on the radio and internet. Between pieces, an ABC radio host interviewed the opera singers about their characters and careers. Two video screens provided closeup views of the singers and instruments, which was helpful for seeing the back rows of the orchestra. I wasn't familiar with Puccini's music but it was a wonderful concert, especially with the warm summer breeze. After the Sidney Myer concert, I walked through the Botanical Gardens and over the Yarra river, enjoying the city lights. The Taylor Swift projections were no longer adorning Flinders Station, but Melbourne still felt just as vibrant and musical. A good note to end this chapter on.
Putting the job search on hold was like turning over a new leaf. No longer preoccupied with the daily web-crawl through Seek.com, or whether anyone would realize I was wearing the same pink shirt for my daily resume drops, I now had more bandwidth for travel planning and special events. The public library continued to be a reliable friend, with plenty of travel books on the shelf. I found the enormous All-Australia edition of the Lonely Planet guidebook, thicker than a kangaroo tail and packed with useful information. I started reading up on my dream destinations – Kakadu, Uluru, and Perth – these lofty goals now made more tangible by the weight of the book. Among the library’s selection of travel books was the hilariously named “Melbourne for Dogs” – a new segment of the tourism market? Furthering the sense of renewal was the start of a new lunar year – the Year of the Dragon. Melbourne has a prominent Chinatown, right in the heart of the CBD, and about 8% of the city’s population has Chinese ancestry. It was a hot Sunday morning and I ventured out to see the festivities. The morning performances included an impressive lineup of dragon puppets, lion dances, and drumming. The crowd was densely packed, to the point where mobility was limited, but I squeezed my way into a shady vantage point. Between the heads, phones, and kids on their parents’ shoulders, I could catch glimpses of the spectacle. It helped that the dragons and lions were often held aloft. The dragons spun in circles, swirled in corkscrew patterns, and at the end of the routine, coiled into a ball for a pose. A bald character with a papier mâché head ran across the stage, helping tell the story. Next were the lion dancers, the most impressive I’d ever seen. The pairs of strong young men maneuvered over precarious benches stacked on the road, stood on each other’s shoulders so the lions towered in the air, and all in the sweltering heat. Also striking was the sheer scale of the event – there must have been 7-8 dragons and 10-12 lions in total! The morning ended with an aggressive round of firecrackers, battering everyone’s ears, and sending red flakes into the air. Many parents had the foresight to bring earmuffs for their small children, a sign of good parenting. After the performance began the parade – the sea of dragons and lions flowed out through the archway, and the platform with the drum brigade rolled behind. The crowd control was quite an ordeal. A vanguard of security staff walked ahead of the dragons, yelling at people to clear a path and get out of the street. Also part of the parade was the Dai Loong dragon, an absurdly long float carried by hundreds of people. I believe it's one of the longest dragons in the whole world! I happened to see it at two points on the route, the main square and the terminus of the parade. At the last stop, it did a tricky “parallel park” maneuver, backing up through an archway and towards the Melbourne Chinese Museum, its permanent home. Of course, there were lots of other elements to the festival – food stalls, a temple for prayer, a giant inflatable dragon for photos, a stage where people in suits gave speeches, a live rock band, and roaming lion dancers that were blessing local businesses. In a different part of the city, another major festival was running in parallel: the Midsumma Block Party, a Pride event. It was held along Gertrude Street and Smith Street in Fitzroy, a trendy area with a large queer community. Both streets were closed to traffic, and it was a vibrant scene with crowds gathered around outdoor music stages and bustling neighborhood bars. I strolled through to soak up the energy, but it was too hot and crowded for an extended stop. Life around the apartment complex continued to be chill. I watched the Superbowl -- my patriotic duty as an American -- though it was a Monday morning in Australia and the US commercials were replaced with local ones. I figured out how to get packages held at the local post office, as my apartment didn’t have a secure package area, enabling me to place some online orders. I made fried rice for dinner, and chatted with a new resident from Saudi Arabia, a project manager. Ahmed was a little hard to figure out – it sounded like he had flown to Melbourne on short-notice, leaving his wife and daughter at home, and had some vague plans of studying. But he was clearly open to dialogue, and it was interesting to hear his frustrations at being personally berated by Western strangers for his society's treatment of women. We talked about housing and family; he didn’t own a house, and it was something he strongly desired. He made a passing comment that in the event of a divorce, the wife would be kicked out of the house. He loved his daughter but also explained his culture’s expectations that kids are supposed to take care of aging parents, regardless of how they were treated. Listening with a charitable ear was required to keep the conversation going. I also briefly met a nice photography student from Mexico City. Around this time, Gail had two different rounds of Servas guests, and invited me to join their outings. The first guests were Peter and Hana, a couple from Denmark. Peter was a hospital perfusionist for cardiopulmonary bypass (naturally we chatted about medical devices!) and Hana was a professor at an architecture school. Another former Servas guest, Emilie from France, also joined for the evening. Together, the five of us walked to the Gasworks, an industrial brick building now serving as an arts hub, for a Friday night pop-up market. The highlight was a live music performance by Charlie Needs Braces, two young women who used a loop recorder to create rich and funky tracks, with layers of percussion, trumpet, and vocal harmonies. One song (“yanoo”) was inspired by a robot waiter; the chorus involved some audience arm-waving. It was quirky and fun. We walked through the neighborhood in search of food, and found a bustling corner pub. The interior was full, but there were tables outside, and we braved the chilly evening with help from a blanket and a flame heater. I ordered a “parma” (short for chicken parmesan), a classic Aussie pub entrée. The portion was quite generous! And according to Gail, not even the largest parma in town. I also had my first pint of Carlton Draught, a nod to my new home. The company’s logo, two red and white horses, is a regular sighting throughout Melbourne. It was fun chatting with Peter, Hana, Gail, and Emilie throughout the evening. Or “Gail’s Servas Club,” as we started to call it. Peter and Hana were headed to Chile next, and Emilie was headed to Bangkok – two exciting destinations that I'd also visited. On our walk through the dark South Melbourne streets, we spotted an owl on a lamppost and possums on the powerlines. After the group split, Emilie and I were taking the same tram, and continued chatting. I heard a rare story of a Servas stay that didn’t go well, when the host tried to take advantage of Emilie’s online marketing consulting skills without paying. One day, a pattern of unusual weather hit. It was a hot day, reaching 95 Fahrenheit, but there was also hail, thunder, and lightning. Downed tree branches wreaked havoc on the grid, with lots of power outages through the city. Trains and trams were disrupted, and everyone was a bit discombobulated. The next day, it was cold and gray. The magpies in the Carlton Gardens investigated the piles of branches. Soon, the newest member of Gail’s Servas Club was visiting from London, and I was invited to join the two of them for an evening in the beach suburb of St. Kilda. I arrived at Gail’s place and chatted with Pete, a Churchill scholar and wheelchair super-user, on his first stop of an Australia-New Zealand tour to connect with disabled innovators and researchers. His rolling suitcase had lost a wheel, and I helped attach two replacement wheels from the hardware store, a desperate repair job before his trip to Sydney. Pete was very amiable and open to my curious questions. I had never spent time around an experienced wheelchair user, especially one so active and outgoing. The day before, Pete had been wakeboarding! I learned that he was planning on driving a car in both AUS and NZ using a system of hand controls. He was kind enough to pull them out and explain how they worked – an interesting overlap between the medical device and automotive world! For our St. Kilda outing, he attached a motorized third wheel to the front of the chair, and handled the tram boarding and footpaths with ease. A really inspiring person – you can see his TED talk here. In St. Kilda, we had dinner at the Esplanade Hotel, aka the “Espy.” It was a large venue with multiple interlocking bar and restaurant areas – one with pub trivia in progress, others with cozy tables set up for Valentine’s Day. The concierge lady was super accommodating and helped us get a table despite not having a reservation. We sat in a back seating area near the pizza oven, with neon lights in the shape of a pizza slice and a disco ball. Naturally, I ordered a tasty pizza! We just missed the sunset, but it was still a lovely time to stroll along the beach promenade. The lampposts were projecting colorful shapes onto the footpath. We walked out onto the pier for views looking back towards the city skyline, and checked out the entrance to the Luna Park, a classic beachside theme park complete with a wooden rollercoaster. Finally, we walked along Acland Street, one of the arteries of the suburb, and peeked at window displays of cakes that would have been more tempting if we weren’t stuffed from dinner. It was really nice of Gail to include me in the two outings (Gasworks and St. Kilda). Not only did it build on our connection from my initial stay, but it was a great way to meet fellow Servas travelers and see new parts of Melbourne!
As you can see, the Year of the Dragon was off to an auspicious start. With a stable home base in Carlton, my next task was looking for a casual job in the hospitality sector – perhaps working as a barista, waiter, or even a bartender. The initial outlook was positive. I was close to Lygon St and Brunswick St, both popular restaurant and café destinations with a dizzying number of establishments. I also had a template to follow for my search, after hearing about Madoka’s experience moving to Melbourne on a working holiday visa and finding hospitality work within a few weeks. It seemed like getting out there was the missing ingredient. I started going door to door on a quiet Monday, targeting restaurants that appeared to have a lull, and avoiding ones that seemed to be actively serving customers. To prepare, I had spent countless hours looking at online job postings on Gumtree and Seek, to get a sense on what local spots might be hiring. Embarking on my walk, I was also armed with a folder of freshly printed resumes, the nicest shirt I currently had with me, and my recent haircut. Who wouldn’t want to hire this guy? I started with some of the restaurants on Lygon Street, with such diverse names as Apertivo, Heart Attack and Vine, Milk the Cow, and Grill’d. I was met with politeness, and about half took my resume. The person at Grill’d was kind enough to mention openings at their other locations. I worked my way towards Fitzroy, and dropped more resumes at a bar called Taquito, a coffee roaster called Industry Beans, and a restaurant called Hecho in Mexico. I thought that perhaps my Spanish would come in handy there. Many places asked if I had an RSA, the responsible service of alcohol certificate, which I had indeed secured a few days prior – giving me a sense that I was on the right track. On Tuesday, I headed back to Fitzroy for another pass. Another set of cafes, bars, and Mexican restaurants including Amarillo, El Camino, Rooks Retreat, Sila Espresso, Wolfhound, and the Union Hotel. More friendliness, regardless of whether they had openings or not. On Wednesday, I went north to target a specific spot – the newly opened Fomo Cinemas, which I had heard about from the girl at Shakespeare in the Park. One of the owners listened to my pitch and took my resume. He explained things were still settling from their grand opening, with a possibility of openings in March, and wished me luck. Since I was in Brunswick East, a suburb I had never visited, I stuck my head in a few spots like Bridge Road Brewing, Craftsman’s Corner, La Candelaria, and Teller. I knew that higher-end places were less likely to hire a newbie, but I also figured I might as well try, especially when in the area. The bartender at Craftsman’s Corner very tactfully rejected my inquiry due to lack of experience. On the other hand, the staff at Teller was happy to take my resume despite being relatively fancy. These contrasting experiences made me wonder whether all the politeness I had been encountering was just good hospitality, regardless of my prospects. I felt more qualified to drop a resume at La Candelaria, a casual Colombian restaurant. That evening, while making a curry chicken dinner, I had a nice chat with Alex, the quiet Frenchman. He was working at Brunetti, an Italian café, though not the main location on Lygon Street. I asked him for tips on searching for a job, and he emphasized that experience was really important to employers – to the point that his friends had embellished their resumes with fake entries to get their foot in the door. He wasn’t advocating for this method, but it was still insightful in a depressing way. On Thursday, I rewrote my resume to blow up the experience section – leaning on past jobs and volunteer work that were real, but playing up the customer-related aspects. I returned to the local library, the Kathleen Syme, and cobbled together some spare coins to pay for the print job. I knew the updated resume would help, but I knew that my lack of direct hospitality experience and my short timeframe (~3 months) were also working against me. On Friday, I tried a few cafes and successfully dropped resumes at Brunetti and Sea Salt. I happened to catch the manager at Sea Salt -- though he didn’t introduce himself as such, it was clear from his aura. In an efficient one-minute conversation, things started out encouraging but hit a wall as soon as he heard my 3-month timeframe. Again, the interaction was friendly, but the slight change in tone and efficient conclusion was everything I needed to know. A welcome break from the job hunting was lunch with Michael, an Australian who worked as a fellow R&D Engineer at Medtronic Santa Rosa. We had never been on the same project, but knew of each other, and he had offered some guidance on my housing search when I first moved to Melbourne. It was fantastic to meet in person, hear about his current job at a neurotech start-up, fill him in on Medtronic news, and generally catch up. The pandemic had cut his time in the US short, and moving back to Australia had been logistically difficult, but he had just bought a house and it seemed like things were back on a normal trajectory. Our lunch spot was Heart Attack and Vine (one of the places I had dropped my resume). The beautiful pattern on my flat white was a subtle reminder of how unqualified a barista I would have been there. The pork sandwich was absolutely delicious, the best meal I’d had in days. Saturday morning, I slept in and reflected on the job search. While I knew that I was building the right habits – going door to door, using online searches for research, emphasizing experience – I knew it was going to take a while to get my foot in the door. Places just didn’t seem to be desperate for workers. I didn’t see a single “Help Wanted” sign on any of my walking tours. And the longer it took, the more my 3-month timeframe was going to work against me. I started thinking about my goals more broadly – I settled in Melbourne not because I wanted hospitality experience, but because I wanted a home base with interesting things to do and a launching point to see other regions of Australia. While a hospitality job would give me interesting life experience, and extra income to fund my travels, it came with large opportunity costs – the upfront search time, the pressure to stay in Melbourne to pick up shifts, and the general exertion of this challenging line of work. I tallied up my expenses and projected my total costs for staying in Melbourne, and realized that with some belt-tightening, I could manage to stretch my savings and still enjoy the regional travels I had in mind, without relying on the supplemental income.
I decided to put the job search on hold. It was a hard decision to make, but it seemed to better align with my goals. Ironically, now I didn’t have the budget to enjoy the restaurants I had visited on my resume dropping tour. But sometimes that’s how things go. Saturday afternoon, I took a tram north to the Merri Creek trail, and worked my way back south. The paved path crossed under several major roads and train lines, so it was a continuous journey but with a mix of terrain. Eventually the creek rejoined the main Yarra River, going through a peaceful slice of wilderness that was only disrupted by the unusual sound of a giant set of windchimes being carried into a meditation park. It was comforting to think that my job hunting decision was going to make this kind of rejuvenating adventure a more regular occurrence. During my first full week as an official Melbourne resident, I took advantage of discount ticket specials and went to see a number of different plays and art exhibitions. The city’s reputation for the arts certainly lived up to the hype! But first, let’s set the stage. My new Carlton apartment had a shared kitchen and living room, and I started to meet some of my fellow residents. James was from Hobart and worked at a bike shop. Alex was from France and also on a working holiday. Ruth and Dani were medical students, from Scotland and Spain, respectively. An interesting mix of people, all about my age, on different trajectories. The kitchen was spacious but pretty bare bones when it came to cookware and utensils. I had successfully made jambalaya for dinner the previous night, but urgently needed kitchen supplies. I headed to a thrift store (they called them “op shops” in Australia) and bought a variety of plates, glasses, and utensils. I also found a well-stocked restaurant supply store that had some professional accessories, including a mini French press that was perfect for my morning coffee. As for my room itself, it was simple but had everything I needed. One major perk was a private bathroom. The shower heated quickly and had good water pressure, perfect for a post-run shower. I appreciated having three places to sit – the desk swivel chair, a lounge chair, or the bed itself. The airflow wasn’t great, with just one window that could partially prop open, but the fan helped a bit. My unit was on the second floor, in the back corner facing into the neighborhood, so it was sheltered from street noise and kitchen noise. However, the room caught the afternoon sun and tended to significantly heat up in the late afternoon. I was thankful it was a cooler summer. The location was also excellent. It was a short walk to Lygon Street, the heart of Little Italy. And in the other direction, it was a short walk to Brunswick Street in the inviting Fitzroy neighborhood. Each area had a grocery store. At the Coles, I was pleasantly surprised to find fresh pasta for sale by the kilo – presumably part of the Italian influence! On Friday night, I went to see a play called Seventeen at the Melbourne Theater Company (MTC). Located in the Arts Precinct, the building’s recognizable façade was a network of PVC pipes. On the surface, the play was about a group of high schoolers celebrating the last day of school by drinking in the park. But the “twist” was that all the teenagers were played by older adults. It was an interesting concept – encouraging different generations to “see themselves” in each other. The playwright was an Australian named Matthew Whittet, and there were a few Aussie-specific references but overall it was a universal storyline. As the drinking intensified, the characters’ secrets and fears emerged, including a few dealing with abusive families. It was a character-driven play, and the actors successfully created believable friendships and rivalries. MTC billed them as all-star cast, and though I didn't know their reputations, I agreed that it was a very strong and balanced ensemble show. The cast even got to show off their TikTok dance moves, which were part of the partying. One highlight was the set design, a tanbark playground that slowly rotated 360 degrees at an imperceptibly slow rate over the course of the play. This allowed the play to maintain a sense of spatial continuity while offering the actors a variety of swings, slides, and benches that provided a unique backdrop for each heart-to-heart conversation. For $23 USD, the discounted ticket was great value. I even had a good seat just a few rows from the stage. Walking away from the theater, I had to laugh at the timing of seeing a play about underage drinking, as I had just completed my Responsible Service of Alcohol (RSA) online training the night before. I tried to take a tram back to Carlton, but it happened to be the first hour of a multi-week construction project, a project that cut off an entire branch of the tram network. I took the tram as far as I could and walked the rest. The tram detour threw a monkey wrench in my Saturday morning plan as well. I was heading south to pick up a guitar from Zeah, and normally the 67 tram would take me directly from Carlton to Carnegie. Instead, I had to take a bus downtown and catch the 67 tram from a platform it normally would never visit. But it all worked out! Zeah had very kindly arranged for a guitar rental from a former student and had it ready for me to pick up. It was also a nice chance to see her teaching studio, a detached unit behind her house. The studio had all the familiar trappings – hardwood floors, footstools, sheet music, and games. There were even a few pictures of Frank hanging on the wall. It was a nice day and I stayed for a little chat on the patio. I wolfed down some leftovers and doubled back to the Arts Precinct to catch my second theater production of the week, called Overflow at the Arts Centre Melbourne (ACM). It was another theater with an easily recognizable building due to the giant skeletal spire on top; it forms part of the Melbourne skyline. Before the show I talked with the friendly lady sitting next to me, also there by herself. Overflow was a one-woman show about being transgender, a string of funny and dismaying stories, all of them captivating. The main character (Rosie) was trapped by unseen tormentors in a gritty bathroom, using these monologues and flashbacks to wait out the situation, but becoming increasingly frustrated. The opening monologue about “pre-emptive peeing” (to avoid bathrooms entirely) set the tone perfectly. Another monologue described rallying to protect a woman from a creepy guy – using the bathroom as “HQ” and sending out scouts for anyone who could be a “Matt.” The actress, Janet Anderson, delivered every line perfectly, and the audience was loving it. The set was a realistic bathroom with two stalls and functioning water – from the sink, leaking overhead pipes, and yes, the toilets. Having real water onstage is messy and not something you see very often, and Overflow was a masterclass in using it for dramatic effect. As Rosie became more frustrated, she intentionally clogged the sink and let it spill over onto the bathroom floor. The sound of running water and the anticipation of the spillage ratcheted up the tension as Rosie continued monologuing. When the tension was too much, Rosie went ballistic and started throwing trash and wet toilet paper onto the walls, kicking up water in the process. It was cathartic and ugly and inspiring and horrifying all at the same time. There was a buffer between the set and the audience, but I suspect a few people got splashed! Thematically, it worked well – Rosie was tired of being seen as a boogeyman and found comfort in doing something that could rightfully be blamed on her. Melbourne being an arts city, I ran into more performances on the way out of the theater. Fed Square had a free opera performance in progress, complete with a live orchestra. The crowds were clustered around the umbrellas, each an oasis of shade on this hot afternoon. And in the CBD, I encountered a street violin player using a loop pedal to create some lively modern tracks. Since I was in the downtown shopping area, I looked for new running shoes at a few stores, but couldn’t find an exact replacement. I also checked out the Melbourne Lego store – which had a lifesize Lego tram! Back in Carlton, I pulled out the guitar for my first practice in ages. It was a good feeling to play my favorite tunes again, though it was strange to use a footstool after so many years with the leg-rest style support. I had all my sheet music downloaded on my computer, so I could easily re-learn pieces. Sunday was a surprisingly social day. The medical student from Spain, Dani, was having breakfast at the same time and we had a nice conversation. I learned he was from Galicia, also into running, and also staying at the apartment complex until mid-June. He was a pretty experienced traveler, mentioning a trek in Nepal, and wanted to travel as much as he could before settling into his medical career. It was a hot day, so I went running mid-morning instead of waiting until the afternoon. It was already 85 degrees, and eventually reached around 95. There were lots of cabbage butterflies in the Carlton gardens, and I was thankful for the water fountains. An unexpected highlight was having coffee with a friend-of-a-friend, Madoka, who had moved to Melbourne on a working holiday visa about a year and a half ago. It was helpful and reassuring to hear her practical tips on getting a hospitality job and finding meetup groups. Madoka had studied in Ashland, Oregon and worked a corporate job in Tokyo before quitting and heading to Australia. Given these familiar places (and parallel journey to my own) there was plenty to talk about. The café, located in Fitzroy, was also excellent. I had been cutting back on eating out, so having a loaded grain bowl with crispy kale and flavorful dressing was a treat. In the afternoon, I got an invite from Gail (my Servas host) to see an art exhibition called the LUME. It was a multimedia projection gallery showcasing works from Aboriginal artists, with a special live music performance by Alice Skye. The LUME was located in the Melbourne Convention Center, an enormous and modern complex that felt like an airport terminal. The art projection show was excellent, following a rough thematic outline of Land, then Water, then Sky. The floor, walls, and hanging screens were filled with images of each artwork, both zoomed out and zoomed in, often side-by-side with real footage of the landscapes they evoked. Each work was displayed for 20-30 seconds and accompanied by a matching song from an Aboriginal artist. The show lasted about an hour, which gave time to walk around the gallery and see it from different perspectives. There were several wine bars, a mezzanine overlooking the scene, and side galleries with physical paintings. One of these galleries explained that there is no word for “art” in the Aboriginal languages. Their traditional "art" is an expression of connection to the land itself, and not created for aesthetic reasons. The musical performance from Alice Skye was relaxing and sincere. Her compositions were slower, melancholy songs accompanied on the piano. At one point she switched to the guitar, but fumbled the chords, and returned to finish the song on the piano. In between, she shared anecdotes about growing up in a remote village and a conference in Canada where she connected with other indigenous people from around the world. Each song had a different artwork projected as the backdrop, which complemented the music wonderfully. Gail had also invited another former Servas guest, Emilia, who caught up with us at the LUME. Emilia was from France, and was wrapping up a stint in Melbourne. We went to a restaurant on the river for a post-show meal, and after fumbling through the QR code ordering system, had a nice conversation. Emilia was house-sitting and pet-sitting in Australia, and had future gigs lined up in the US, specifically Washington and Oregon. We reflected on the themes of home and connectedness to place, which had featured in the LUME show. She expressed a sense of disconnectedness from France and found the people there challenging to deal with. She often hosted fellow travelers but some of her neighbors didn’t understand the concept of couch-surfing and complained to the landlord. She had encountered similar issues while serving as a house-sitter, when neighbors complained to the house-sitting app, which deleted her account. Though bitter about these incidents, she didn’t seem deterred from the nomad lifestyle. We shared a few small plates, including mushroom and beef fritters, that hit the spot. After dinner, Gail, Emilia, and I walked along the river to the tram stop, where we headed off in different directions. It was so nice of Gail to bring us together for a memorable evening of art! Having spoken with 3 different “nomads” over the course of 3 meals – Dani from Spain, Madoka from Japan, and Emilia from France – I couldn’t help but reflect on how different their motivations and methods for traveling were. Whether inspired by optimism, pessimism, or a mix of both, we had all found the courage to leave home and ended up in Melbourne. If one thing unites nomads, it’s thinking about the next destination. During this stretch, I spent time sorting out flights for two future trips – to Canberra in March, and to the Galapagos in July. The fourth and final show of the week was Shakespeare in the Park at the Botanical Gardens. I brought a picnic dinner and arrived early to stake out a spot. It was a surprisingly cold evening, and I needed every layer that I brought. The girl sitting next to me was a student who had just moved from Queensland to Melbourne for an acting program. She worked at a movie theater that had just opened, and she tried to explain a candy called “maltesers” that I had never encountered. The play was a Midsummer Night’s Dream, a perfect choice for this outdoor venue. Although I’d seen it enacted many times, this was the first with cameos from real forest animals like bats and possums! The production pushed the comedy to its limits, with lots of non-Shakespearian jokes and one-liners mixed into the script. There were fun modern touches: exuberant Nick Bottom was hyped up with Red Bull, Lysander and Hermia escaped using a golf cart, and Snug the “Lion” burst through a poster with the MGM logo. I thought the second act was a little overdone, with too much energy for energy’s sake. The costumes and lighting were excellent, with great use of smoke and special effects for the fairy scenes. I particularly liked seeing the tall trees in the background illuminated with vivid colors. After the show, the theater student and I compared our critiques while walking past the Shrine of Remembrance , impressively illuminated at night. When I got home and thought back on the week’s memorable characters, both onstage and off, it was like a surreal midsummer night’s dream.
“If we shadows have offended, think but this, and all is mended, that you have but slumbered here while these visions did appear.” With the relief of a signed lease, but with the keys still a few days away, I remained a nomad in Melbourne. However, the transition period offered some unique opportunities, and I ran with it. It took two tram rides to get from South Melbourne to Toorak. With a large suitcase, a backpack, and a few smaller handbags, it was a lot to carry but not unmanageable. The beat-up wheels on the large suitcase no longer rotated smoothly, which kept the bag steady as the tram accelerated. Out in suburban Toorak, many of the tram stops didn’t have platforms, so I had to keep a close eye on Google Maps in order to get off in the right place. I was surprised that trams were running in the lane closest to the center of the road, instead of the leftmost lane. It meant that passengers getting on/off had to cross an active lane. Over time, I realized that cars in the left lane were actually quite good at stopping behind the tram. But the first time I dismounted with my collection of luggage into the road, it was a leap of faith. The final leg of the journey was a walk through a residential street lined with tall, shady trees – a textbook example of the proverbial leafy suburbs. In Toorak, I stayed in a private room that I found on AirBNB with a large window providing tons of natural light. It had a shared kitchen that was small but well stocked. One of the hosts, the friendly Gonzalo, pointed out my allocated fridge and pantry space. I went to the local Wooly’s for ingredients, and made my favorite farro salad recipe for dinner. Well, in this case it wasn’t exactly a farro salad. Earlier in the day, I had searched for farro at the South Melbourne Market, to no avail. Even a shop that specialized in grains didn't have it! Though they suggested an alternative – spelt – so I took a chance and got a bag. My spelt salad was delicious. It was still Australia Day, and since I had missed the main festivities while out signing my lease and relocating to Toorak, I headed downtown to see if there were any remnants of the holiday atmosphere. Flinders Station was illuminated with green light, but otherwise I didn’t encounter anything. However, it was the night of the AO men’s semifinal, which was projected on the big screen in Fed Square, so I still found evening entertainment. In the background, the sunset behind the skyline and the awakening of the city lights was simply wonderful. On the screen, scrappy Medvedev was struggling against Alexander Zverev and lost the first two sets. I was surprised that Medvedev had made it so far, after seeing his poor performance at the match I attended. The temperature dropped so I headed back to Toorak, still yet to witness Medvedev actually win a set. It was a sunny Saturday morning and followed the tram line east to the Gardiner Creek Trail. There, I found a well-maintained path that hugged the riverbank, with frequent footbridges crossing the reflective brown water. There were lots of bikers, runners, and walkers out enjoying the day. The pathway brushed up against a cricket pitch and a golf course, and even had a net to protect against rogue golf balls. Although it was a suburban path with easy neighborhood access, it still felt like a slice of wilderness. I spotted the flicking tails of the purple swamphens between the gum trees, and a water dragon by the water’s edge. It was my first outdoor run in almost 3 months, and it felt amazing to be back out there. I ran with it, and ended up doing 5 miles. The AirBNB wasn’t far away from the lovely Toorak library, which I had discovered on a previous scouting mission. Getting there was a pleasant walk through a maze of peaceful back-alleys. I made progress on the blog, and returned to make spaghetti Bolognese for dinner. I chatted with the other AirBNB host, Valeria, who was originally from Lima, Peru and building confidence in her English. She mentioned that my American accent was easier to understand than the Aussie accent. As a part of my Australian immersion, I watched a few episodes of the kid’s show Bluey, which was the #2 most streamed TV show in the world in 2023. It follows a family of Blue Heelers living in Brisbane – the main character, Bluey, is the older daughter. The show had funny plotlines with Aussie tropes, like cricket games and avoiding magpies. Despite being only 7 minutes per episode, the show landed some really great moments. It’s widely celebrated for the way it depicts equal co-parenting, as Mr. Heeler often plays along with Bluey’s games. It also touched on the absence of a father figure (i.e. military or business travel) from a kid-centric worldview. Seeing these modern sensibilities infused into a show, I now completely understand its appeal to a global audience! Sunday was a bit of a remix of the previous days. I worked on the blog from a local park, paid another visit to the Toorak library, ate lots of spelt and spaghetti, and finished with another trip to Fed Square to watch the AO men’s final. The turnout was higher than the semifinal, and it was a warmer night, so I stayed for the whole thing. Though I was no fan of Medvedev, I was curious if he would manage to hold on. When the fatigue started to show, it made sense having followed his arduous journey to the final. Over seven matches, Medvedev spent a record 24 hours and 17 minutes on the court – a serious feat. However, the crowd was much more enthusiastic about the young Jannik Sinner, and happily celebrated his victory. It was finally Monday – my move-in day! Since the apartment complex was run like an AirBNB, the check-in time wasn’t until 4:00pm. I spent the morning video chatting with friends in the US, and then traveled from Toorak to Carlton. I optimistically looked for the keys at 3:45pm – no dice. But as promised, the keys had appeared when I circled back at 4:05pm. I took stock of the room, pleasantly surprised to find a fan and laundry basket. Then I picked up a few essential supplies at Wooly’s and gave the place a good cleaning, which it needed in a few spots. I had one night of overlap between the Toorak AirBNB and the Carlton apartment, and spent it in Toorak. It happened to be the season premiere of Australian Survivor. The Aussie version is filmed in Samoa and featured a large cast from all over Australia – including places that I now had visited! For example, a salon owner from Bondi and a creative director from the MONA in Tasmania. The theme of the season was Titans (leaders/experts in their field) vs. Rebels (talented folks with unconventional pathways). The large suitcase made one more journey across Melbourne. I was so close to unpacking it fully, but of course, the universe wanted me to wait just a bit longer. There was a traffic accident and the tram had to reroute. It took an hour to get from Toorak into the CBD, and not even the intended stop. I switched to a different line that brought me to Carlton, and finally arrived on Elgin Street. The first order of business was laundry. Although the apartment had a coin washer and dryer, there was a modern laundromat next door that took credit card payments, so I went there. Both the washer and dryer were surprisingly quick, around 30 minutes each, and the powerful machines were the best I’d had in months. I picked up some Vietnamese food for lunch and hung out in the nice waiting area. After months of living out of a suitcase, it was great to actually hang up my clothes! The suitcase was at last banished out of sight under the bed. Next on my list was getting a proper haircut. It was my first professional cut since March 2020! While I had built confidence with cutting my own hair over the years, starting this new chapter in Carlton seemed like a good time to mix things up. I found a spot called Buddy’s Barbershop, where a friendly guy named Jan worked his magic with the razor and clippers. Jan was super easy to talk to and had lots of local insights. I left feeling fresh and energized. On the walk back, I stopped for gelato at Pidapipo, a recommendation from Zeah. The classic hazelnut gelato was to die for! My apartment was a few blocks away from the Carlton Gardens, and I set out on my first run there. I wasn’t expecting much from a park boxed in by major streets, but it exceeded my expectations! There were wide, paved pathways lined with tall, shady trees that crisscrossed the lawns, offering lots of different route options. Part of the city skyline was visible over the tree line, giving it a slight Central Park feel. In the center were two notable buildings, the Melbourne Museum and the Royal Exhibition Building – the only UNESCO heritage site in the city. In the late afternoon, there were lots of people on picnic blankets, playing basketball and tennis, roller-skating, walking dogs, or taking pictures by the fountain. There were urban birds, like magpies and magpie-larks, and a pond with ducks. The abundance of shade and water fountains made this a great running spot even on a hot Australian summer day. I did a few laps, taking a slightly different route each time, an endlessly customizable autocross course. I made a simple dinner in the communal kitchen, realizing it wasn’t very well stocked. I was lucky to find a bowl and a fork! Although it was mostly quiet, I met an interesting fellow named Igor who grew up in Moscow, worked a finance job in Auckland, played in a Russian rock cover band, and had just moved to Melbourne. His New Zealand passport took a while to get, but it gave him working rights in Australia. He was about to leave Carlton for one of the outer suburbs, so it was a brief overlap. Still, it was a preview of the interesting people who would be rotating through the building. After an action-packed day, I spent my first night in Carlton and had a chill morning. One I regrouped, I had my eye on a park called Yarra Bend, a straight shot to the east. It was a 20 minute bus ride, and the bus was decently crowded at 4:00pm on a Wednesday. I even got to see how a wheelchair user boarded the bus, using a special ramp the driver unfolded. As the name implies, Yarra Bend Park encompasses a curvy part of the Yarra River, with trails heading upstream and downstream. I started in the upstream direction, through a section of bush that was surprisingly dense but had nice views of the water. It seemed like the kind of place where I’d encounter an unpleasant creature, so I was relieved to rejoin the main road. The road led to the Bellbird picnic area which had a trailhead for the Flying Fox viewing area, my ultimate goal. It was the late afternoon, and I wasn’t sure if the flying foxes (fruit bats) would be visible from the trail. Boy was I wrong! There were thousands of bats, densely packed into the trees on both sides of the river for a long stretch of the trail. Many were immediately above me as I looked in awe. They were surprisingly active – chittering, opening and closing their wings, getting into squabbles, and flying between trees. It’s really hard to convey how many bats there were! It was the time of year when the colony was at its peak population, which a signboard estimated to be 50,000 bats. I don’t know if I’ve ever seen that many of a single animal in one place, except maybe the monarch butterflies, but these bats were also large. I’ll have to return at dusk, when they are taking off en masse. I was not expecting such an incredible wildlife experience on a casual running path. Though I logged around 5 miles, in reality I stopped and stared at the bats for about as long as I was actually running. I’m really surprised these bats aren’t on the Melbourne tourism radar – it was a real highlight!
Through the ups and downs of the transition period, the stellar runs at Gardiner Creek, the Carlton Gardens, and Yarra Bend were a source of joy. I’m excited for the weeks to come! If my first days in Melbourne were defined by the Australian Open and a home base in the CBD, my next days were defined by apartment hunting and a home base in South Melbourne. I stayed with a Servas host named Gail, a native Melburnian and consumer safety consultant. She had recently moved from a distant suburb to South Melbourne to be closer to the thriving city center. It was generous of her to host me despite the recent move. She had a cat named Katie, a beautiful long-haired calico. Katie was shy – in part because she was adjusting to the new house – but still would hop up on Gail’s lap, joining us for dinner or a watch party. The first evening, Gail made a salmon salad, and we had a nice introductory conversation. Gail was well-travelled, having done many vacations and work trips around the world, and had great stories. She had even traveled in the American South and had an excellent playlist of blues, soul, and Americana music. Her music recommendations were one of the highlights of the stay. She introduced me to a Tongan-Australian duo, Vika and Linda, whose song “Hard Love” was an instant favorite. With dinner, we also had some delicious ginger wine, plus figs & ice cream for dessert. The next morning, I embarked on another exploratory walking tour to get the lay of the land. On the way out of South Melbourne, I picked up a delicious bahn mi and Vietnamese coffee and ate at the nearby Albert Park. The park had a lovely lake with tons of waterfowl, an athletic complex, and lots of dirt running paths. Large black swans had numbered collars around their long and flexible necks, like racing bibs. Albert Park is also the location of the Melbourne Grand Prix, an annual Formula One race. Even in January, they were already setting up the grandstands for March. Between Albert Park and Chapel Street were a mix of busy commuter streets and quiet leafy residential blocks. Chapel Street was the real draw, a trendy shopping and dining street that extends from Windsor into Prahran. I walked its length, getting a sense of its character – a mix of tasty international cuisines, cheerful stores with potted houseplants, barbershops, and thrift shops, but with some vacancies too. I stopped by the tiny Prahran Square library but didn’t linger – some shabby men were making a commotion in the park outside and a kids’ audiobook was loudly playing inside. The South Yarra / Toorak library was a much nicer place to stay. It was a short walk away, but in the elite suburb of Toorak. It’s considered the second highest earning postcode in all of the Australia! From a quiet corner, I dug into the housing search. Approaching the search was a bit daunting, as it’s a large city with so many different suburbs. I initially focused on the ones I had visited, like Richmond and East Melbourne, or the ones that looked like they had access to the Yarra River trails, like South Yarra and Abbotsford. After not having much luck in these areas, I widened the search to include coastal suburbs like St. Kilda and Middle Park. But a few days into the fruitless search, I nixed the constraint of proximity to running trails, and that opened things up. The three apartment websites I focused on were Facebook Marketplace, Flatmates, and RealEstate.com.au. Facebook Marketplace had more dubious options but overall lower prices. This turned out to be a double-edged sword. While the prices were more appealing, the people I contacted were all overwhelmed with inquiries from other people with the same idea. On the opposite side of the spectrum, the listings on RealEstate were generally targeted for longer-term leases. A post on RealEstate that didn’t specify the lease duration quickly shot me down when I reached out inquiring about a 5 month stay. Flatmates was more promising. There were some lease takeovers that were a shorter duration, a range of quality/price to spread out the competition, and a sense that real people were creating the posts – they often gave background on the various housemates’ personalities in a funny and friendly way. Unfortunately, even with shifting my price range higher and focusing on Flatmates, housing was still competitive. Out of ~20 people I contacted, only 2 agreed to show me the place. The first one I saw, in South Yarra, was given away 5 minutes before I arrived. It was frustrating, but the room was pretty shabby so I got over it quickly. The second opportunity was in Richmond, but the poster didn’t seem very friendly and had a 100% response rate, so I figured I wasn’t going to be the only one inspecting it. I added the appointment to my calendar but mentally flagged it as very unlikely. I rode the tram from Toorak back to South Melbourne, picked up some groceries, and caught up with Gail. It was a nice summer day and we had some Aperol spritzes. I started on dinner, making my signature red curry chicken as a token of appreciation to my host. After, we watched an interesting TV program called Australian Story that focused each episode on an extraordinary Aussie. The first was about a motivational speaker dealing with his own family demons, and the second was a young violin duo that took a non-traditional path to fame through making parody YouTube videos. Continuing the music theme, Gail brought out a steel-tongue drum she had recently acquired, with a mesmerizing sound quality that could accompany a meditation session. The next day, I walked to the Botanical Gardens to meet Zeah, the guitar teacher who I met at Suzuki conventions in Italy and California. She was a close colleague of my teacher Frank Longay. Without realizing, I had reached out to her on the anniversary of Frank’s passing. Zeah was probably the first Australian I can remember meeting – I would have been 10 years old at the time. She taught one of the group sessions at the Torino event, and I still remember her enthusiasm as a teacher. As a parting gift, she gave us little koalas that could clip onto our guitars, and I still have mine – over the years, a subliminal ad for Australia. I now wonder if meeting Zeah and hearing of a faraway place called “Melbin” from an early age had sparked my interest in the city. It was so great to see Zeah and catch up as we walked around the gardens. Her Suzuki studio is still active, though the pandemic and economy have impacted the student pipeline, and visa/funding challenges have put a damper on international teacher exchanges. She pointed out and named some of the birds and plants in the garden, a small thing that I really appreciated. We picked up lattes at the Terrace café, settled on a shady bench, and continued chatting about mutual friends, living in Melbourne, guitar repertoire, etc. We agreed that somewhere, Frank was smiling. From the gardens, I set out to explore more suburbs that kept appearing in my searches – Fitzroy and Collingwood. It was a hot day but I still managed to walk there. I passed the Melbourne Cricket Grounds and cut through the majestic, shady Fitzroy Gardens. My reward was another Vietnamese lunch. I did a mini tour of the area, walking down Gertrude Street and Smith Street, considered one of the “coolest” streets in the world. It was indeed vibrant and full of interesting shops, a little more artsy and grungy than Chapel Street. To continue the housing search, I camped at the Fitzroy Library and made more fruitless inquiries. I took the 96 tram from Fitzroy to South Melbourne. Unfortunately, when I arrived at the house, I learned that Gail had come down with COVID, likely from an outing with a friend before I arrived. Prior to this development, we had been discussing the possibility of extending my 3-night stay to a full week so I could cat-sit while Gail was out of town. That idea no longer made sense, as Gail had cancelled her weekend plans and we now had the inconvenience of masking and isolating in the house. I ate some leftover curry in the backyard, a return to outdoor dining, and booked an AirBNB for later in the week. After so much walking, I decided to spend the day within South Melbourne. It was just a few blocks to the South Melbourne Market, with plenty of fruits, veggies, deli items, crafts, and a food court. Though smaller than the Queen Victoria Market, it still was fun to browse. I found the vendor that sold Gail the steel tongue drum and had a nice little chat. In the afternoon, I continued the housing search at the South Melbourne library. I found a sunny window looking towards the Town Hall, the source of the hourly bell chimes I had been hearing for a few days. I decided to pivot my strategy and focus on a few housing companies with larger portfolios of properties. I’d seen a few pop up on Flatmates, but when I checked out their websites, I was pleasantly surprised to see an emphasis on “mid term” renters like myself. LiveComfy and FlexiStayz were the main two options. LiveComfy was centered within the CBD, but I didn’t like the idea of being up high on the 24th or 30th floor and wasn’t as interested in the CBD in general. FlexiStayz was centered around Carlton and Brunswick, two northern suburbs. I started getting familiar with the specific properties available. The next morning, I took a barista course offered by a vocation school, RGIT. Since Melbourne is known for its coffee culture, it seemed like a great “local” experience. I mainly did it for fun, but it was also a practical foundation for potentially working as a barista during my working holiday. The instructor Carlos was from Argentina and his accent was a little hard to understand, but he was good at repeating and emphasizing the key points. He started with some of the basics of espresso drinks and machines. The class of 7 was an interesting mix – a few younger people hoping for a barista job, a few coffee enthusiasts like me, and two Indian ladies adding coffee to their food truck menu. Most of the course was hands-on! First, we optimized the coarseness of our espresso grinders to get the extraction time in the optimal range (25-35 seconds). Then we worked on using the steamer attachment to froth and heat the milk. It was quite finicky to get the nozzle at the right depth to create the “crema” (foam), adjusting the height, and waiting for the right quantity of foam to develop. Thankfully there was ample opportunity to practice – I probably made around 50 espresso drinks in the four-hour session! Of course, we could drink as much as we liked, but most were poured down the drain – a very unnatural feeling for a coffee lover. We learned how to make all the classic drinks – plain espresso, cappuccino, latte, flat white, and even a piccolo (mini) latte. It was helpful for memorizing the subtle differences. For example, the cappuccino has “2 fingers” of foam height, the latte has just 1, and the flat white has 1/2. I shared a station with a Melburnian who wanted to better utilize his espresso machine at home. Our final task was working as a team to fulfill a batch order. It was really hard to create the right amount of foam and split it between pitchers when each drink required a different ratio of milk/foam. Carlos used a spoon to check the amount of foam, giving us simple but constructive feedback. When the course was done, I had a fast-food lunch at Hungry Jack’s, the Australian version of Burger King. I ordered the Aussie Whopper, featuring slices of beetroot. A tasty and unexpected fusion food. Gail asked me to pick up a physical newspaper while I was out, and I stalked the CBD in search of one. It was difficult in the digital age, but I found one at Flinders Station. I traveled across town to inspect the South Yarra apartment (that was given away right before I arrived) and then walked back to South Melbourne. After a thorough review of FlexiStayz’s properties, I narrowed it down to a few that either had a private bathroom or proximity to running paths. I gave them a call and successfully made an appointment to see my top choice in Carlton. For dinner, I checked out a local spot that Gail recommended called Clay Pots Evening Star. There was supposed to be live music (Gail had even called ahead to confirm) but for some reason it wasn’t on. I stayed and had a fish called a red mullet with a glass of Adelaide sauvignon blanc. I had never tried red mullet and picked it because the menu had a little anecdote about the largest red mullets being highly prized by Romans. It was the kind of seafood restaurant with a chalkboard menu and several prices next to each fish, indicating the larger and smaller pieces, that were crossed out with each new order. I was seated by the window with the perfect mix of fresh breeze from the outside and the tantalizing aromas from the open kitchen inside. The fish was a little oversalted, but the experience was memorable. It was Thursday night and the eve of Australia Day, celebrated every year on January 26th. While the holiday inspires patriotism, it also inspires counter-protests under the label of Invasion Day. A little bit like Columbus Day vs. Indigenous People’s Day in the US. In any case, the winner of the “Australian of the Year” award was being presented on TV. Among many worthy nominees, it went to a pair of researchers who were pioneers in using immunotherapy for treating melanoma. It was the last morning of my Servas stay, and I made a final round of avocado toast using the delicious seed bread from the South Melbourne market. Then, I hopped on the tram to Carlton to check out the potential apartment. It was close to Lygon Street, the heart of Melbourn’s Little Italy. I was met by the FlexiStayz agent, Paola, who showed me the building. It had around a dozen rooms and a large, shared kitchen. The specific unit was on the second floor, tucked in the back corner, away from the street. The room was currently occupied, and extremely messy, but it gave me the impression I needed. After the tour, I indicated my interest, and Paola prepared the lease agreement on the spot. We sat in the living room while the paperwork and payment were completed. The room wouldn’t be available until a few days later, but this was no issue, as I had an AirBNB already lined up for the next few nights. The price was $450 AUD per week, which is slightly below the median rent in Melbourne ($515/week). This translates to about $1,180 USD per month, or about $40 USD per night. Thankfully, the apartment came fully furnished and all utilities were included in the rent. Could there have been better places, or better deals out there? Probably, but not without prolonging the search. The ability to customize the lease duration was definitely a key factor in the decision. Plus, having a place lined up gave me a lot of peace of mind after an increasingly glum week of hunting. To celebrate, I swung by the South Melbourne Market and picked up two pastries from the popular patisserie I had been eyeing. One was a delicious square pastry filled with almond paste. Back at the house, Gail was on the phone, sorting out the aftermath of a sophisticated phone scam, but when there was a good window, I said goodbye and thanked her for hosting me. We agreed to meet at Clay Pots on a different night when the live music was back.
My first impression of Melbourne was through the lens of the Australian Open, or as the locals call it, the Tennis. “Are you here to see the Tennis?” was a common question in casual conversations. Indeed, the Tennis had a large presence in the city, beyond the arena complex itself. Around the city there were posters with the tournament’s slogan, “AO Hits Different,” numerous pedestrians wearing sleek AO hats, and extra staff at the tram stations advising fans on the best tram routes to the grounds. The main square, Federation Square, had a big screen livestreaming matches for the general public to enjoy, complete with lawn chairs and umbrellas. Smaller screens, filled with the recognizable blue court, could be spotted at the floating bars and riverside restaurants along the Yarra. In the Richmond neighborhood, storefronts had giant stickers with the silhouettes of tennis players. Even the high-end jewelry stores at the Crown Casino complex had tennis balls added to the window displays. The Tennis was both a tourist hit and a source of local pride. It was fun to see such universal enthusiasm for sporting event. Melbourne was also the final phase of the siblings trip. The four of us took an Uber from the airport into the CBD, where we stayed on the 15th floor of a building across from the Sea Life aquarium. The AirBNB had wonderful views looking towards the Yarra River, the Southbank skyscrapers, and the Melbourne Cricket Grounds. The place had modern trappings, but over time we realized it was run by a problematic host. The listing advertised a hairdryer; we couldn’t find it, so we sent the host a message. Instead of replying to the question, they quietly deleted the hairdryer from the AirBNB listing. Where previous guests had left negative reviews, the host had retaliated with brutal attacks. So even though the Wifi was non-functional, a major let-down in the heart of the city, we decided not to complain. Val only had one night in Melbourne, so despite the residual exhaustion from our Kangaroo Island getaway, Rachel and I joined her for a little exploring. We walked through the Flagstaff Gardens to the Queen Victoria Market, which was normally closed at night but had a special Wednesday summer event. There were hundreds of stalls, including chic clothing, books and stationery, music performances, and a smorgasbord of food options. It was also quite crowded; one had to be mindful of the kids holding skewers of spiral potatoes. For food, Val and Rachel had tofu bao, Nepalese momos, and Italian panzerottis. I had a Sri Lankan combo plate; the curry, fermented veggies, and roti were delicious. We also ordered sangria from the Running Bull, a tent with the cute slogan “run with it.” (My new motto for the working holiday?) We continued browsing, picked up some Thai food for Vince, and headed back to the place. Val began the task of repacking her suitcase, including items that Vince, Rachel, and I were sending back to California. We were all grateful that she brought a large suitcase and was so generous with taking on our stuff. She was off to the airport the next morning, with Hawaii as her next destination. The siblings trip was such a treat. We all agreed there were some real stand-out days: exploring Sydney Harbor, snorkeling in the GBR, wine tasting in Adelaide, and our Kangaroo Island safari. The stars aligned to make the trip possible. Soon, we were all dispersed across the globe again. Vince and Rachel went to the Australian Open for 3 days, soaking in as much of the Tennis as they could. I joined them for the first night match at Rod Laver (the main court), which originally was going to be their first match as well. However, after seeing the players and prices for the day match, they added on an upfront session! They got to see both Iga Swiatek, the #1 women’s seed, and the rising star “Carlitos” Alcaraz, Rachel’s favorite player. In the meantime, I had a little time to start exploring the city. I started with a pint-sized adventure: going to the City Library to get a visitor library card. Since our place didn't have Wifi, the library was also an oasis of free, fast Wifi to start my apartment/job hunting. After, I stopped at a Woolworth’s for groceries, where a homeless guy got into a fight with the security guard. I hung out at the AirBNB, snacking and waiting for the right time to join the others at the Tennis. The afternoon tennis match went very long, which ate into the buffer before the evening match. As a result, Rachel and Vince didn’t have a chance to explore the grounds on the first day. Since it was my one and only day with a ticket, I walked the grounds by myself and took in the atmosphere. It was a sunny day and it was the transition time between matches, so the grounds were bustling. In between the larger main courts, there were patios with a canopies of artistic shade structures, bars and luxury suites hosted by brands like Rolex and Tanqueray, a smattering of gift shops and food vendors, and even a bunch of ping pong tables for families to enjoy. I stood by a footbridge that overlooked the dozen or so smaller courts, which showed the magnitude of the tournament at this early stage (it was only Day 5). It was more of a party atmosphere than say, Wimbledon. The tournament’s modern branding included lots of colorful cartoonish murals with positive messaging. It had plenty to offer for the "eventists" - people who visit the grounds for the ambience, without going to any matches. It was finally time to enter Rod Laver arena for the evening matches. Our seats were above the TV cameras and had the classic view that you’d see on TV, with some minor blockage from the equipment and the people in front of us. The rows were quite narrow, and we were in the middle of the block, which discouraged us from getting up during the match. At convenient moments, we each ventured out for food or warm beverages. The first match featured the #3 women’s seed, Elena Rybakina, the Russian-born Kazakhstani player. At this early stage of the tournament, a competitive match wasn’t expected. Rybakina was playing against Anna Blinkova, an underdog (underdingo?) who ultimately pulled an upset and defeated the #3 seed. It was a long and competitive match. After each player took one set, the final set went into a tense tiebreaker. Per the rules, the winner was the first to 10 points with a +2 lead. Both players managed to win points when they were on the brink of losing, and the final score ended up being 22-20. At 42 points, this was the longest tiebreaker in history! The crowd’s excitement (and incredulity) increased with each additional point. It was a spectacular match to witness. Blinkova was charming and funny in her interview, even after this inspiring athletic feat. The second match featured the #3 men’s seed, Daniil Medvedev, against Finnish underdog Emil Ruusuvuori. The young Fin took the first two sets, frustrating Medvedev (and his coach). Medvedev took a timeout for a medical check, which could have been a stalling tactic. By this point, it was 1:30am and we were getting cold. We left with Medvedev’s fate uncertain – was another upset of a #3 seed in store? When we woke up the next day, we discovered Medvedev had made a comeback and survived the challenge. It was great to see him play, as he would later reach the finals and earn second place overall! On the second day of tennis, Vince and Rachel returned to the grounds while I went on another mini adventure. First, I went down to the building’s gym and ran 5k on the treadmill. The AirBNB key fob didn’t actually have access to the gym, but someone was leaving as I arrived and let me in. Later, I headed west to the Docklands area to another public library. It was within the free tram zone, a nice feature of the CBD. My first Melbourne tram ride! The library was modern and had several floors, ping pong tables, and a makerspace. On the way back, I cut through the busy Southern Cross train station, and picked up more supplies at the Woolworth’s embedded in the station. I spent the evening at the apartment, snacking on Yumi’s falafel and hummus, until the tennis crew came back. On the third day of tennis, I took the tram east and did a self-guided walking tour through East Melbourne, Richmond, the Botanical Gardens, and Southbank. As before, I used the libraries as anchor points. The East Melbourne library was stylish and modern, reflecting the affluence of this suburb. Heading into Richmond, I enjoyed the variety of shops along Bridge St. The two-story Victorian houses, quirky stores, trams, and foot traffic evoked a flatter version of San Francisco. The quieter Church St lived up to its name, with an abundance of charming churches. Across the river, the Botanical Gardens were spacious but lively. There were couples enjoying wine on picnic blankets, a busy café called The Terrace where I got an iced coffee, and a kids’ playground with goofy-shaped topiaries. I skirted the edge of the Shrine of Remembrance, a prominent WWI monument, and made a mental note to visit the museum later. Now in Southbank, I visited a small wine shop to pick out a gift for my Servas host – a Barossa grenache. I swung by the Crown casino complex, which had some dazzling interiors and fancy shops. The exit was just a few blocks from the AirBNB, completing a giant loop around the Australian Open grounds. Rachel and Vince returned from the afternoon tennis, and we had a pesto pasta meal together while sharing stories from the day. Amazingly, they got into a selfie with Carlos Alcaraz! Apparently after he was done practicing, and a loud fan asked him to take a selfie with the kids in front. Someone offered up their phone, and Carlos obliged. Not only did the photo include the whole crowd, but the phone’s owner actually texted it out. Another unique, “only at the AO” experience. It was now Rachel and Vince’s last day in Melbourne, and they carved out some time to explore outside of the tennis bubble. We checked out of the AirBNB, and I made a side trip to my Servas host in South Melbourne to say hello and drop off my bags (more on the Servas stay in the next post). Then we rendezvoused at a shopping mall in the CBD, where the other two were stocking up on western goods before heading to the Middle East and Africa. The mall had just about everything they needed, but the most elusive item turned out to be a Kindle. We visited an Officeworks and inquired; they had one left in stock, but they wouldn’t hand the box over the counter so that Rachel could check the size and weight. Workers at that location had been recently traumatized by an attempted theft or crazy person (it was a bit unclear) and didn't want us to run off with the box. At their suggestion, we headed to a different Officeworks nearby. The second location had the display Kindle we were seeking, and Rachel bought the last one in stock. The bizarre experience at the first location was a reminder that even a safe city like Melbourne has its urban crime. We walked to the Botanical Gardens, passing Flinders Station, Federation Square and street musicians on the bridge. We stumbled across a pride festival called Midsumma; by coincidence it was the first day of a multi-week event. There were rainbow-decked booths from sporting teams and corporate sponsors, giant stages with live music, and lots of queer arts and crafts for sale. It was a little overwhelming, but the potential for people-watching was off the charts. There were drag queens, wheelchairs, dogs, rotary selfie platforms, an Auslan booth for the deaf community, and a fleet of food trucks. We stopped for lunch; I got a souvlaki wrap and a coffee. The charismatic coffee cashier was trying to upsell customers on snacks. The comedic quips were good, so I got a cookie too. The weather was cold and gray, and we weren’t really dressed for the occasion. We sought an indoor activity and headed for the National Gallery of Victoria across the street. Outside there were some interesting installations, including a bunch of potted plants that would play electric tones when you touched them. The most striking one was a set of a dozen LED screens with stylized digital birds that walked in place, like moving hieroglyphs, along the side of the road. Inside the NGV, we watched a funny video of an actress posing as different emojis. It was near an exhibit called the tennis ball exchange, a giant vault of tennis balls from the community. We browsed the Asian Art gallery, which was very well curated, but agreed we were too tired to absorb it properly. For a more engaging activity, we played a round of mini golf at Holey Moley, part of the Crown casino complex. The course was had a small indoor footprint, and we were stuck behind a large group, but the holes themselves were quite innovative. One was a marble labyrinth that didn’t even require the club. The final hole was inside an enclosed wind tunnel full of fake dollar bills, swirling around the golfer. It was almost time for Rachel and Vince to leave for the airport. Of course, it was only fitting to end this chapter with a last taste of the Tennis – we found a screen by the river and watched for a bit. We returned to the lobby to get their bags out of storage, waited for the Uber to arrive, and then bid each other safe travels. It was honestly hard to believe that our trio travels, which began 2 months and 12 days before in Auckland, had finally come to a close in Melbourne. It was an unforgettable trip together, and we covered so much ground!
It was 11:00pm, and we were driving down a pitch-black road at a drastically reduced speed when we spotted the creature crossing the road on all fours. Our eyes were dry from several hours of scanning the road, and at first it wasn’t clear what it was. Another wallaby? Another possum? Sensing danger, it quickly climbed the first tree it found on the other side, giving us our answer – a koala. It was a koala crossing the road. We couldn’t believe it! But how did we end up on this treacherous night drive? And how did we recognize this was a koala behavior? All will be explained. By far the wildest chapter of our Australia adventure, we spent an action-packed 2 days on the secluded Kangaroo Island. Located off the southern coast, “KI” is Australia’s third largest island. Living up to its name, there are approximately 65,000 wild kangaroos that well outnumber the 5,000 human residents. Unfortunately, a significant portion of the island burned during the 2019/2020 bushfires, mainly on the western side. The ecosystem had largely bounced back, but the human infrastructure was recovering slowly. This was a remote destination, but it was definitely worth the journey. I’m so glad Rachel worked it into the itinerary. From downtown Adelaide, we caught a 2-hour bus to the Cape Jervis ferry terminal. The bus was surprisingly bumpy, but there were nice views of the coast, and we spotted a few emus and a large kangaroo mob – the term for a group of these iconic marsupials. The ferry ride was also a rough journey. It's considered the most expensive ferry in the world in terms of price per kilometer, and it crossed a stretch of open ocean that caused the boat to careen on every axis – yaw, pitch, and roll. Optimistically, we started in some swivel chairs by the front window. As soon as the journey started, the heaving of the boat caught us off guard and sent the chairs spinning. We fled to the back of the boat where it was more stable, barely able to walk in a straight line as the floor moved under us. A miserable hour later, we made it to the port of Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. As we were leaving, we overheard a crew member rate the turbulence as a 4 out of 10. We dragged our suitcases to the rental car agency, where an extremely friendly agent gave us lots of recommendations: the best beaches on the island, which ones had recent jellyfish and shark sightings, and which stretches of road had wildlife at night. Our car was a RAV4 hybrid that was quiet and comfortable. Similar to other phases of the trip, Vince was the driver and did an excellent job. During the daytime, KI had favorable driving conditions due to lack of traffic and straight roads. (Nighttime would be a different story.) The first stop was the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park, a zoo-sanctuary with all sorts of animals – mainly Australian but a few international guests. The park was surprisingly uncrowded. The rental car agent had mentioned it was the first slow day in 8 weeks, so we must have just missed the summer crowds. The koalas were one of the highlights. They had at least a dozen, spread across several different exhibits. We could see them at eye-level, resting in trees and munching on eucalyptus leaves. We even found a wild koala on the outskirts of the park, after a helpful tip from another guest. The wallaby and kangaroo exhibits had gates so you could enter and hand feed them, similar to the experience I had at the Bonorong Sanctuary in Tasmania. However, since the KI Sanctuary had few visitors, the animals were a lot hungrier! The wallabies jockeyed for access to our food, and at one point, three were simultaneously eating out of Vince’s hand. There was even an albino wallaby, and a few tiny joeys (one still in mom’s pouch) that added to the cuteness. Compared to the wallabies, the kangaroos were a lot more laid back, lying down in the shade when we arrived. However, once the food was apparent, they were eager for their fill. They held onto our hands with their blunt claws while they ate, and occasionally tried to reach up and grab our hands when they weren’t being actively fed. Some of the other notable animals at the sanctuary: the happy-looking quokkas of internet fame, blue penguins in a swimming pool, a baby flying fox (fruit bat) wrapped up in its mom’s wings, an active Komodo dragon, a group of three giant pelicans, a vibrant blue-winged kookaburra, and a dingo enclosure with rusty trucks to climb on. It was only a 15-minute drive to the Stokes Bay, recently voted Australia’s best beach. We hiked through a narrow passageway of boulders to reach the beach itself. It had nice sand and clear blue water, with orange-dusted rocks in the distance. There were plenty of other visitors, but nothing compared to a Sydney beach. Val braved the water with a swim, while Rachel, Vince, and I walked along the shore. There were red jellyfish in the water, and we found a tiny little sea star on the sand. Though there were other well-regarded beaches on the north coast of the island, we decided to wrap up the day. We stopped for groceries in the main town of Kingscote, then drove to the smaller vacation town of American River. Our AirBNB was a yellow cottage called The Shanty, which was decorated with ceramic pelicans and nautical pictures. It was quite charming, though lacking Wifi. I made an absurd quantity of couscous and veggies for dinner. At sunset, Vince agreed to join me for a quick stroll around the town. We went to the jetty, where two little boys eagerly told us about the fish they had caught that day. A pair of dolphins swam quite close to the dock. Several enormous pelicans were perched on a lamppost, above a statue of an enormous pelican. A sleeping seal occupied the platform below us, with a posted sign indicating this was a regular hangout spot. We were treated to the most spectacular sunset I can remember, full of fiery reds that painted the clouds all the way across the harbor. When the seagulls stopped squawking, it was peaceful – quiet enough to hear the seal snoring below. The next morning, we embarked on an epic day trip around the southwestern part of the island. We first drove to Seal Bay, known for its large Australian sea lion colony. We felt the entrance fee was overpriced, but the seal lions themselves were good entertainment. From the wooden platform, we saw all kinds of antics. Most notably, a sea lion intruder was chased into the water. Both intruder and defender swam surprisingly fast. There were also a few sea lions sleeping near the platform, offering a closer view. The large males indeed had a lighter colored area around their neck, their lion's mane. Our next stop was Vivonne Bay, a former winner of the “best beach in Australia” competition. It was gray and cloudy, so we didn’t see it at its best. We walked along the shore, looking at the carved rock pools. For lunch, we stopped at the General Store, which happened to be the only restaurant on that side of the island. Considering the lack of choice, the food was surprisingly good. I had a whiting burger – a local fish, served battered and crispy, in a toasted bread roll. The vegan equivalents were served with a special aioli, and were a crowd pleaser. From there, we headed to Flinders Chase National Park. The visitor center was a portable building, no doubt a temporary fix from the fire. While the ranger processed our ticket order, I noticed a sign asking people to report sightings of the green carpenter bee, which burrowed in trees and hadn’t been seen since the fire. After explaining the map, the ranger casually asked if we wanted to see koalas; there were a mother and joey in a tree near the parking lot, which we successfully found. We drove to the lighthouse at the edge of the park for a coastal hike. We had the trail to ourselves. The brush was rather tall, and we startled a few wallabies along the way. The path ended in a ramp and staircase that descended the edge of the cliff. There were great views of a small island and lots of fur seals basking on the rocks. We even saw a few cute seal pups clambering over rocks their size! The trail was supposed to end at a viewing platform for the Admiral’s Arch, but it was under construction so we only glimpsed the arch. One of the construction workers, laden with tools, jokingly asked if we had anything else for him to carry back up the stairs. We returned to the lighthouse, completing this excellent mini hike. Also within the national park was an unusual rock formation called the Remarkable Rocks, improbably perched on a clifftop in a way that evoked Stonehenge. The rocks were formed in the earth, lifted above the surface, and eroded into shapes that were smooth and concave yet with prominent protrusions. A smattering of red algae and the ocean views below added to their mystique. It was the early evening, and the rocks were deserted, so we had an opportunity for all the silly photos we desired. On our way out, we saw a wild goanna (lizard) from the boardwalk. The final activity of the evening was a twilight safari at the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. We took the drive slow, as the kangaroos were becoming more active and started crossing the road near our car. Our efforts to manifest an echidna for Val were successful, as we spotted one by the side of the road. We turned off the main road into the sanctuary and found even more kangaroos. We had PB&Js for dinner at a picnic table near the parking lot, wondering if we were in the right place. There were no buildings, and only one other couple had arrived. Thankfully our guide, Josh, pulled up in a van and introduced himself. He was from the UK, visiting on a working holiday, and had every intent on staying in Australia rather than going back home. Even though he only had 10 months of experience as a guide, he did a phenomenal job of bringing the animals’ personalities and quirks to life. The tour was just the seven of us – Josh, our four, and the couple from Tennessee, so it was very personal and interactive. The first stop was kangaroo-centered. We checked out one of the local mobs, learning that each mob had a “boss” (dominant male) that reigned for a few years. After being unseated by a younger challenger, the deposed bosses formed a club of their own. The next stop was all about the koalas. Josh knew exactly where to look, as he monitored the koala movements a few times a day. Each koala typically moved to a different tree every day, climbing down to the ground at dawn or dusk. They were also known to have “home trees” that they returned to once a week. Given their incredible appetites, churning through 3,000 leaves a day, they can actually do a lot of damage to the local trees. The Kangaroo Island koalas were originally introduced to the island as a conservation project, but without predators, quickly reached damaging levels. There were ongoing efforts around sterilization for population control, though these efforts were probably less urgent after losing 80% of the koala population during the fires. We drove out to a lake, kangaroos bouncing alongside the van, their tails swinging downwards as a counterbalance as they pushed off the ground. Josh pointed out some kangaroos practice fighting in the distance. An actual fight would involve leaning back on their tails and kicking their opponent with the massive claws on their hind legs, injuring the opponent's abdomen but usually not fatally. Along one of the drives, we learned about the yacca plants. These spiky shrubs were some of the first things to spring back just days after the fires. During their rejuvenation, they grow faster than bamboo. They also grow towering flowers that eventually tip over onto the ground. Historically, the yacca sap was used for gunpowder, as it’s naturally explosive. We continued the koala spotting tour, and Josh drew our attention to the grunting of the male koalas as they made their presence known to competitors and mates. The tour took an exciting turn when we spotted a koala that was walking on the ground between trees, making the grunting noise before our very eyes. When it noticed us, it found the nearest tree and started climbing. Josh explained that normally they seek out trees with abundant leaves, but if there is potential danger, they’ll pick the nearest tree regardless. In some cases, this has led koalas to climb the legs of nearby tourists! In our case, the nearest tree was dead and had no leaves at all. We watched in amazement as the koala used its sharp claws to scale the tree with ease. It stayed in the crook of tree for a while, and presumably for the night. The lighting was beautiful, with the pink sunset through the eucalyptus trees. It started to rain. We stopped at the visitor center so that Josh could tell us about the impact of the 2019/2020 fires. He showed us a charred signboard for the sanctuary, melted glass bottles, and a bird’s nest made of scrap metal fragments – from the aftermath of the fires when there were no branches available. The fire was started by lightning. Apparently, the iron-rich rocks scattered throughout the island can act as lightning rods. He showed a map of burn zone, footage of firefighters evacuating through the blaze, and told us harrowing stories about mass graves for animal carcasses and destruction of the sanctuary’s buildings. If the weather hadn’t become rainy, checking the spread of the flames, the damage could have been even worse. Before the tour finished, we made one more round through the now-pitch-black bush. Using a large flashlight with a red filter, he pointed out a few more koalas, and several groups of wallabies. Josh explained that the wallabies will slap their tails on the ground to warn each other of potential danger. He also mentioned that the wallabies and kangaroos co-exist surprisingly well. He was full of interesting and entertaining facts, a great feature of the tour. The tour ended around 9:30pm, and we started the drive back to American River. It was decisively night, and the animals were in charge. Only ~10 people lived on the west side of the island; we only encountered one or two cars. Many people had warned us to the drive slowly – from the rental car agent, to a final caution from Josh – and we set out at a reasonable 50 km/hr (30 mph). What was normally a 1.5 hour drive became a 3 hour drive. Plus we were on high alert for animals, so it was an intense 3 hours. On top of all this, the windshield was stubbornly foggy and we had to blast the front fans. There were so many animals we lost count. A train of wallabies crossed in front, pausing directly in front of the car, seemingly unaware of the blazing headlights. We kept an eye out for wallabies on the shoulder, and called them out as we spotted them, in case they made more dumb moves. There were fewer kangaroos, but they were stubborn like the wallabies, and took their sweet time getting off the road. The possums seemed to have a sense of self-preservation. We could see their glowing orange eyes in the distance, but they scuttled into the shoulder as we drew nearer. We probably saw ~20 possums in total. And there was the koala. We saw it crossing and couldn’t believe our eyes. Just like the koala we had seen with Josh at the sanctuary, it bounded up the nearest tree once it was across the road. Considering they usually change trees at dawn or dusk, seeing one at night was all the more surprising. We saw a second koala in the shoulder on a dirt road, and it seemed a little dazed – possibly from the headlights of the car that passed us not long before. It turned its head away and stayed put, so we continued on our way. At last, we arrived back at The Shanty. Vincent deserves a major shout-out for driving us home safely without any wildlife collisions. We were all tired from a very active day, and it was a long-enough drive, even without the constant fear of a rogue wallaby charging into the road. Having four sets of eyes scanning the shoulder for marsupials certainly helped, but Vincent gets the majority of the credit.
The adventure wasn’t over yet. After a late 12:30am return, we had to get up and check out by 7:00am to drive back to Penneshaw, return the rental car, walk to the ferry terminal, and catch our 8:30am ferry. The return ferry was smooth sailing, which was a win. However, the ferry was late, and our bus connection was even later. The possibility of missing our flight out of Adelaide started to loom larger. Instead of taking the bus to the main terminal downtown, we got out a few stops early and took an Uber directly to the airport, saving some precious minutes. Of course, as luck would have it, this was the time that Jetstar decided to be strict about luggage weight. While the agent allowed a grace of 1kg per bag, we had to do some creative repacking. Rachel wore two hats going into security. In the end, we made our flight to Adelaide, with enough time to grab food in the airport. Kangaroo Island turned out to be the ultimate Australia adventure. It included a thrilling ocean journey, many “pinch me” wildlife sightings, stunning beaches and rock formations, and a nail-biting night drive. We will never see those kangaroo crossing signs the same way! |
Grant MenonFreeform blog to share my travel experiences with my friends, family, and future self! Archives
May 2024
Categories |